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This can be a surprisingly controversial debate and is a question I get asked about all the time. Which is better: butter or shortening? I’m going to be diving deep into the exact differences between the two, and even comparing the same recipes made with each so you can SEE the differences.
It seems so simple to just substitute out one ingredient with another but baking is truly a science and every change you make can result in a totally different product! I’ve done specific testing on butter vs. shortening with pie crust, biscuit, and cookies. In the video below I’ve explained everything in case you don’t feel like reading. Let me know in the comments below if you’re Team Butter or Team Shortening!
Butter
What is it?
Butter is composed of at least 80% fat (per U.S. standards) and no more than 16% water, plus a smaller amount of milk proteins. That water content turns into steam while baking and can increase gluten production, which can result in a crisper cookie, flakier pie crust or biscuit.
Butter has a melting point that’s around body temperature. This means it starts to melt the moment it encounters heat, giving it that melt-in-your-mouth feeling we all love. For cookies, this also results in more spread and a flatter cookie.
PROS
• All natural.
• Provides an excellent incomparable taste.
• Butter offers a melt-in-your mouth texture.
• Gives biscuits and pie crust an incredibly light yet flaky texture
CONS
• Butter can be expensive.
• It can melt too quickly and cause baked goods like cookies to spread too thin
• The temperature of your butter in baking is really important, so it’s a little more difficult to get right
Shortening
What is it?
A fat that is solid at room temperature and typically made from vegetable oils. It used to be commonly made through a process resulting in trans fat, but now that we know how trans fat negatively impacts our health it can now be manufactured in a way that results in saturated fat instead. Basically, it is a cheaper and more shelf stable butter substitution.
Shortening is 100% fat, containing no water. That means no steam is created during baking which effectively reduces gluten production, so shortening cookies tend to be softer and more tender. Also, shortening has a higher melting point than butter, resulting in taller cookies. Because there is no water, most brands of shortening will recommend you add in 2 tablespoons of water for every cup of butter that you’re substituting with shortening.
PROS
• Shortening is cheap and has a long shelf life.
• Cookies made with shortening are tall and tender.
• It can be easier to work with than butter which can quickly get too warm.
CONS
• Not natural.
• Can’t compare to the flavor of butter, even if the shortening is “butter-flavored” (nothing is as good as the real thing).
• Lack of water leads to a more crumbly texture.
Shortening’s higher melting point results in a taller cookie. However, it also means that it doesn’t fully melt in the mouth like butter does, leaving behind an unpleasant waxy coating on the palate.
THE VERDICT?
I personally prefer butter over shortening and rarely bake with shortening. I just like to use natural ingredients when possible.
That waxy coating I just described is exactly why I don’t like to use shortening in recipes like buttercreams or icings where that waxy feeling is super obvious. Sure, buttercream made with shortening won’t melt if you’re serving cake or cupcakes in a warm area, and it’ll remain stable for longer, but that’s not enough to sacrifice the better texture and flavor butter offers.
However, I do like the height and tenderness shortening lends in cookies. That’s why I would suggest using 50% butter and 50% shortening – or some similar combination – to get the best of both worlds if you’re baking cookies. However, when it comes to pie crust and biscuits, I prefer 100% butter.
Shortening can be a great option for people who can’t eat dairy or who subscribe to a vegan diet.
I hope you found this insightful! Which do you think is better? Leave me a comment and let me know what you think.
YAY Butter…nothing compares when it comes to flavor and the fact that it’s natural! Anything with a shelf life of “forever” and probably can survive a nuclear holocaust without consequences I, personally, don’t want to put in my food no matter what it can do over butter ~ LOL! I’ll “put up with” the LITTLE differences and ALWAYS go with butter! So glad you did too, Tessa! You’re my baking hero so I would have been disappointed if you hadn’t!!!
Haha!! Thanks Pamela 🙂
BUTTER, BUTTER, BUTTER! I’m trying to get away from artificial foods in my diet, as convenient or cost effective as they might be. Besides, flavor trumps appearance any day and the effect on appearance is usually very minimal.
As you pointed out, the choice is based on what effect you are trying achieve. In most pastries where the flavor and lightness are expected I use unsalted butter. In some breads where shortening is used I will go with either oil or shortening. With cookies and pie crusts I tend to use a 50-50 mix because I want the butter flavor and lightening as well as the thicker structure provided by shortening.
Thanks for your efforts in educating us. I find your articles quite useful.
Team butter!! I prefer a natural ingredient. I was surprised when I took a Wilton cake decorating course that their buttercream recipe calls for shortening! I will have to try the half shortening – half butter idea for cookies 🙂
We always used shortening for buttercream in culinary school because it holds its shape so well, I just didn’t enjoy the flavor of 100% shortening buttercream at all. It is BUTTERcream after all right?! 😉
I also love to use Ghee instead of shortening. My pie crust asks for shortening and butter, I use Ghee and butter and whow, the crust turns out super tasty and doesn’t burn easily.
That’s so interesting, Caroline! I’ll have to give that a try.
This was interesting. I haven’t used shortening in a recipe for close to 25 years now. Firmly on team butter. Can’t stand the taste or feel of it in my mouth. (Shudders) One day, some 5 or 6 years ago, a lovely young lady came to work with a large covered tray. She was excited to share with us her grandmother’s frosted cupcake recipe. She had made them the night before, completely from scratch including the frosting. She knew that I baked and wanted to get my opinion on them. So she stood there, anxiously scanning my face as I bit into one. All I can say is that I deserve an Academy Award or at least a medal of some sort! The frosting was nothing but shortening with powdered sugar and flavoring. The batter had shortening in it as well. Blah! Ick! Yuck-a-doo! I needed a tounge scraper, toothpaste, toothbrush, mouthwash! It was awful! BUT, I smiled, told her they were lovely and wasn’t it wonderful to have these old family recipes. Then I thanked her, excused myself, went to the ladies room and was sick. Lol! So, yes, firmly team butter!
Haha!! I know just how you feel. Once in culinary school I had to scoop shortening from a GIANT container of it and ended with with greasy shortening all over my hand for the entire night. It just wouldn’t come off completely! So gross!
I’m all about the BUTTER now! LOVE this informational and educational video! Thank you Tessa!!!! I totally love your blog!
Thanks so much Genny!
As with all of your videos, this was very informative and helpful! Thank you so much.
Happy to hear that, Sally!
Doesn’t butter make cookies hard and crumbly? I want my cookies soft. I didn’t go to culinary school, so I dont know. Thanks for your advice.
I’m an unsalted butter baker for the most part with occasionally using half butter- half shortening in some cookies. Your videos are very informative. Thanks!
Thanks, Diane!
Tessa-
an interesting post as usual. However, under the cons for shortening, people should remember that a product may be labeled as having no trans fat, but may still legally contain up to 0.5g of trans fat per serving. And if you are like me and can’t stop with one cookie, etc., that “per serving” qualifier gets kind of meaningless.
Patty
Really good point here, Patty!
I am glad you chose butter. I haven’t used shortening in years. Love your blog!
Thanks so much!
I found your blog by google-ing “recipe for german chocolate cookies”. I’ve seen lots of recipes, but yours totally look the BEST and I’m hoping to make them soon. I also added your blog to my favorites to follow it. THANKS!