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In this post I’m going to share with you how various ingredients and techniques can affect the taste, texture, and appearance of your chocolate chip cookies. This will hopefully help you understand how chocolate chip cookie recipes work so you can make the PERFECT batch every time, whatever you consider to be perfect. This information will allow you to alter or create your own chocolate chip recipe that produces cookies just the way YOU like them. You’ll be an expert on the anatomy of the chocolate chip cookie.
I used the Nestle Tollhouse Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe as my control and made little changes and variations in techniques and ingredients to show you how they affect the cookie.
I halved and adapted the original Tollhouse recipe. I kept everything the same through each recipe test, changing one key thing to see its effect and photographing the results for you. Be sure to check out my free Cookie Customization Guide to truly perfect your cookies!
Cookie Tools and Ingredients Used:
Tools and Ingredients Used (when applicable):
-Spring-Loaded Cookie Scoop (Medium or 1 1/2-Tablespoon size)
–Chicago Metallic sheet pans
–Escali Digital Food Scale
–KitchenAid 5-quart Stand Mixer
–Oven thermometer
–Unbleached parchment paper
-Gold Medal All-Purpose Flour
-Fine sea salt
-Light brown sugar
-Large eggs
-Unsalted butter at a cool room temperature
Control Recipe
Ingredients:
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (142 grams) all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 stick (113 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (75 grams) granulated sugar
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (75 grams) packed light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 large egg
1 cup (170 grams) semi sweet chocolate chips
Directions:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Line baking sheets with nonstick baking mats or parchment paper.
In a medium bowl combine the flour, baking soda, and salt.
In the bowl of an electric mixer beat the butter, granulated sugar, and brown sugar until creamy, about 2 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla, beating well to combine. Gradually beat in the flour mixture. Stir in the chocolate chips. Scoop 1 1/2 tablespoon-sized balls and place onto prepared baking sheets.
Bake for 9 to 11 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool for 2 minutes before removing to wire racks to cool completely.
Here is the control, an adapted version of the Nestle Tollhouse recipe. The full recipe I used to base all of the tweaks on is at the bottom of this post.
Baking Powder:
Removed baking soda from recipe and used 1/2 teaspoon baking powder. This produced results that were more cakey and puffed while baking.
Baking Powder AND Baking Soda:
Used 1/4 teaspoon baking powder and 1/4 teaspoon baking soda. This produced results that were crisp at the edges, soft in the middle, with a good amount of spread. The combination of the two leaveners produced the best results in my opinion.
MORE Flour:
Increased the flour to 2 cups (250 grams) which created a more crumbly dough and very little spread. The cookies were small yet thick and relatively undercooked (ooey and gooey) in the middle.
MELTED Butter:
I replaced the room temperature butter with melted and cooled butter. Instead of creaming the butter and sugar with an electric mixer, I simply stirred the butter and sugars together then let sit for 5 minutes, until the sugar was better absorbed by the butter. This produced flatter cookies that had a shiny, crackled top reminiscent of brownies. They were also more crisp at the edges.
All Granulated Sugar:
I used 3/4 cup granulated sugar (150 grams) in this recipe which produced flat, white, chewy, and slightly crunchy cookies but with little flavor. Since baking soda (called for in the control recipe) requires an acid (such as brown sugar) to react, these cookies fell very flat as you can see by the way the chocolate chips protrude.
All Brown Sugar:
I used 3/4 cup (150 grams) packed light brown sugar in this recipe which produced thick, brown, and soft cookies with an intense butterscotch flavor. The original control recipe uses an even ratio of granulated and brown sugars. If you prefer your cookies to be flatter, chewier, or crisper, use more granulated sugar. If you prefer your cookies to be softer and thicker and have a pronounced butterscotch flavor, use more brown sugar.
24 hour CHILLED Dough:
I used the control recipe but chilled it in the fridge for about 24 hours before shaping and baking. This produced cookies that were slightly thicker, chewier, darker, and with a better depth of butterscotch flavor. If you have time, try chilling your next cookie dough for at least 24 hours, or up to 48 hours.
Thanks for a great breakdown and answers to what we’ve all been wondering as we try for those perfect cookies! My question is who were the lucky people to eat all the “test” cookies? 🙂
I love this post. I am an experienced home baker. I am 63 and have been baking since I was 8 with my mom. Occasionally something weird will happen with my cookies when I try a new one. This gives me something to refer to when I have a problem. Thanks so so much. I love your site.
I so appreciate this post!! I am not a baker and this had so many great tips. PS: I wish I had been with you to taste test. 😉
Oh girl. I am in love with this post! I can’t even imagine how many cookies you made to test everything out. Such great material here. I am infatuated with making cookies. Chocolate chip cookies, of course. You have to try them out with a bit of cornstarch next time. So darn good, Tessa! Pinning this 1,000 times. My readers will love it!!
So glad to see this but I have to point out that on Nestlé’s chocolate chips package, as well as on their website, they say to “Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees.” http://www.verybestbaking.com/recipes/18476/Original-NESTLÉ-TOLL-HOUSE-Chocolate-Chip-Cookies/detail.aspx
So what difference would this reflect?
Oh my! This work of genius deserves some sort of lifetime achievement in the baking world award in my book! I any thank you enough for taking one for the team and baking ALL those cookies so we all know forever more how to make cookies exactly how we love them everytime! Bravo 😀
This is so helpful – thank you for sharing!
This is awesome Tessa – love how you went about it! I’m a HUGE chocolate chip cookie fan. It’s seriously the one dessert I can’t get enough of. It’s also the only baked good I’ve perfected. I make mine with all brown sugar (combo of light and dark), all brown butter (it makes for an amazing nutty depth of flavor), a several hour resting, and an interesting whipping/resting technique I learned from America’s Test Kitchen. Works like a charm every time. More here if you’re interested! http://noshon.it/blog/2012/12/brown-sugar-brown-butter-chocolate-chip-cookies-peanut-brittle/
Awesome post! Thanks for all your hard work. I have two questions … 1) a previous post said something about using oats instead. Is that finely ground oat flour or would you use whole oats, as in oatmeal? I adore chocolate chip/oatmeal cookies … and 2) I once tasted a version that replaced the oil in the cookies (butter or shortening) with unsweetened applesauce instead. They were obviously lower in fat but were delicious and I preferred them to the higher fat variety. My husband who would NEVER eat low fat preferred them also! Do you know anything about that addition? Perhaps I will Google it to see if I can find out more.
Have you ever tried (or thought of) using browned butter? My mouth is watering at the thought after reading you blog.
OH! and I use GRANULATED Brown sugar!
I start with the Toll House recipe as well. I melt my butter and while hot pour over the sugars & vanilla and mix with mixer. While mixing I add the eggs and I get kind of a melted carmel consistency. Then I add to the flour, baking soda and salt and mix by hand until thoroughly mixed. Then I add the chocolate chips. Then I chill for several hours. The cookies come out cakey & thick, with just a bit of spread, and the look of your cookie in the melted butter test. The less I chill the batter, the more of a spread I get. I like them thick so I chill as long as possible – sometimes even overnight! I get compliments on my cookies all the time!