The Most Important Thing to Know About Cocoa Powder

Tessa Arias

Author:

Tessa Arias

Modified: May 3, 2024

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I’m sharing the secret behind the BEST cocoa powder to help you achieve the perfect texture and rich chocolate flavor in your baking. Learn the science behind different types of cocoa powder, and my favorite brands of Dutch-processed and natural cocoa powder.

a pile of cocoa powder on a white background.

Tessa Arias, Chef and Cookbook Author

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When buying cocoa powder, a lot of people focus only on the brand name, color, or if it’s Dutch-processed or natural.

Although some of these things are important (I have a whole article dedicated to the differences between natural and Dutch-processed cocoa!), one thing matters the most – and this one thing is most often overlooked. In fact, most people aren’t aware of it at all!

The SECRET behind the BEST cocoa? FAT!

In this article, I’ll explain why the fat content is the #1 most important thing to know about cocoa powder, when this matters most in baking, and which cocoa brands I recommend.

four measuring cups full of cocoa powder on a white background.

The Most Important Thing to Know About Cocoa Powder: Fat Content!

The FDA stipulates that cocoa powder must contain at least 10% cocoa butter. However, cocoa butter is pricey, so you’ll find most grocery store brands contain just that amount. This leads to powder that tends to be starchy and chalky. Those starches zap moisture. In fact, they can absorb up to 100 percent of their weight in moisture!

This can lead to dry cakes, cakey brownies, crumbly cookies, and chalky or bland chocolate frosting. Overall, the less fat, the less chocolate flavor.

High-Fat Cocoa Powder is Magic!

High-fat cocoa powder contains at least 22% cocoa butter – more than double the amount of most grocery store cocoa products! This results in a richer chocolate flavor with cakes that are ultra-moist and tender in texture, brownies, and cookies that are chewy and fudgy, and ultra-smooth buttercream frosting. In fact, one of the secrets to my Best Chocolate American Buttercream recipe is high-fat cocoa powder!

Take a look at the images below. While you may not be able to plainly see in the photos alone, the high-fat natural and Dutch-processed cocoa powder cupcakes and brownies were significantly more moist and rich with chocolate flavor compared to Hershey’s cocoa, which contains only 10% fat.

three cupcakes made with different types of cocoa powder, to show how they compare.
three brownies made with different types of cocoa powder, to show how they compare.

How to Tell if a Cocoa Powder is High-Fat

  • High-fat cocoa powder is often labeled as such and comes at a higher price point.
  • Look at the nutrition label on the packaging to be sure: Look for 1 gram of fat or more (instead of .5 grams) per tablespoon (5 to 6 grams) serving.

Where to Buy High-Fat Cocoa Powder

High-fat cocoa is widely available online, but you can also find it at specialty stores such as Penzey’s. Ghirardelli and E. Guittard can sometimes be found at Whole Foods and Target. Links below.

What Are the Best Brands of Cocoa Powder?

This depends on personal taste preference! Below are some of my favorites including some of the cocoa products used in the photos throughout this article. As you’ll see, most Dutch-processed cocoa has far more fat content compared to natural cocoa. Learn more about Natural vs. Dutch-Processed Cocoa Powder here.

Dutch-Processed Cocoa Powder

  • Bensdorp (24-26% fat)
    I love this cocoa! It makes amazingly rich, dark, and tender cakes, fudgy, moist brownies and cookies, and incredibly luscious frosting.
  • Penzeys (22% fat)
    When I can’t wait for Bensdorp to be delivered, I’ll usually stock up on cocoa at Penzey’s because this particular one (as well as the Natural version listed below) are both great – though I will say the Dutch process Penzey’s seems to have less chocolate flavor.
  • E. Guittard (22% fat)
    This is one of the more easy-to-find Dutch cocoa powders. I usually see it at Whole Foods, Sprouts, or Target, but it’s also easily available on Amazon here. It makes for really chewy brownies with a slightly less sweet more refined chocolate flavor for adult palettes. Not to mention very tender and fudgy cake!
  • Droste (20% fat)
    I haven’t used this brand, but it’s Cook’s Illustrated pick so I’m sure it’s fantastic!
  • Valrohna (20% fat)
    This brand can be difficult to source, but it’s easily available on Amazon here. It’s an amazing chocolate company used in many high-end professional kitchens and bakeries.
two piles of cocoa powder, both Penzey's brand - one Dutched and one natural.

Natural Cocoa Powder

Please note that Natural and Unsweetened Cocoa Powder are the same thing – however, always check the ingredient label when purchasing or using cocoa powder because some packaging is not always clear. Any ingredient mention of “alkali” or “Dutch” means it’s Dutch-processed and not natural. If it’s natural, the ingredient should simply be “cocoa.”

  • Penzeys (22% fat)
    I find Penzey’s Natural High Fat Unsweetened Cocoa Powder provides a classic clean and pure chocolate flavor and ultra-moist texture. The added fat lends a richness that can reduce chewiness in recipes like brownies but it lends fudginess instead. I use this for just about anything, especially for special occasion treats since it’s more expensive.
  • Ghirardelli (20% fat)
    This is my favorite grocery store brand of natural cocoa powder. I use it for everything! It has a surprisingly high fat content and provides a bold chocolate flavor. It’s also available on Amazon here.
  • Nestle Toll House (11% fat)
    Nestle is actually what I typically test my blog recipes with when I want to make sure they work with easily accessible ingredients. I don’t want to give myself a leg up when I test recipes for publication. That doesn’t seem fair to expect that everyone must use difficult-to-find or expensive ingredients. Nestle is a great basic product, but if I’m struggling with dry cakes or cakey cookies, I’ll use one of the above options instead.
  • Hershey’s (10% fat)
    Hershey’s Natural Unsweetened Cocoa Powder is the quintessential mild chocolate flavor of American childhoods. It’s homey and familiar, but it can result in brownies and cookies that are a little more crumbly than moist but still chewy. I would not recommend it for cake or frosting.
two piles of cocoa powder - one Penzey's and one Hershey's.

Recipes Using Cocoa Powder:

a bowl of brownie batter.

This post was originally published in 2021 and has been updated with additional tips and baking science information. Photos by Ashley McLaughlin.

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Matthew
Matthew
2 months ago

If a recipe calls for both baking powder, and baking soda, but the baking powder is greater in quantity (for example: 2tsp baking powder; 1/2tsp baking soda), and the recipe does not specify which type of cocoa powder to use, am I correct in understanding that it would likely be Dutch-processed as the baking powder is far greater in quantity than the baking soda?

Thank you in advance!

Emily @ Handle the Heat
Emily @ Handle the Heat
Admin
Reply to  Matthew
2 months ago

Great question! More baking powder doesn’t aways mean the recipe was meant for Dutch-processed cocoa. Dutch-process cocoa won’t react with baking soda, so recipes that rely mainly on baking powder might lean that way, but that’s not a hard rule. Natural cocoa is acidic and pairs with baking soda, so many older recipes that just say “cocoa powder” were originally designed with natural cocoa in mind. When in doubt, I’d ask the recipe author (if you can) what they used so you match their results 🙂 Learn more about the differences between natural and Dutch-process cocoa here.

Matthew
Matthew
Reply to  Emily @ Handle the Heat
1 month ago

Thank you for your time! It was a very old muffin recipe from a local newspaper.

Patti
Patti
3 months ago

Hi- I have been told that, in baking, you can substitute 1oz of baking chocolate with 3tablespoons of cocoa powder and 1 tablespoon of butter. Wouldn’t that compensate for the dryness you mentioned about using cocoa powder? Not sure how butter fat and cocoa butter relate as far as fat content-

Rasheed
Rasheed
4 months ago

Hi Ita, please suggest me which is the best for hot chocolate, looks silky smoothly and thick

Ita
Ita
9 months ago

I have a Dutch cocoa powder that has 0.5g of fat per 6g. Would this still be good to use for baking or is it considered bad to use? It’s the Whole Foods market brand of cocoa powder. Thank you

Emily @ Handle the Heat
Emily @ Handle the Heat
Admin
Reply to  Ita
9 months ago

Hi Ita! When choosing a Dutch-process cocoa powder, it’s best to look for one with at least 1 gram of fat per tablespoon (5-6g serving) for the richest favor and texture. There are a few exceptions, like Penzey’s, which lists a smaller serving size (1/2 tablespoon) on the label.

Tessa’s favorite Dutch cocoas are E. Guittard, Penzey’s, Bensdorp, and Valrhona, all of which are linked in the article above. I’ve also used both the Dutch and natural Ghirardelli cocoas while testing recipes and had great results 🙂 Hope that helps!

Celeste
Celeste
1 year ago

I ended up purchasing Bensdorp after reading your review. It is THE BEST cocoa powder! It took my baking up several notches. Unfortunately, it is out of stock until January due to production issues 🙁 So I came here to see what your second choice was. Also, unfortunate is Penzey’s political statement on its website. As an Independent voter, I found it distasteful and bad customer service. So on to search for E. Guittard!

Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

Caroline
Caroline
Reply to  Celeste
27 days ago

Try Cacao Barry Extra Brute 22/24% Dutched Cocoa Powder, it is amazing! available at
worldwidechocolate.com